Alhambra Palace - Granada

We visited the Alhambra Palace in Granada for the first time this January and wanted to share our experience and tell a little bit about it's history....

Founded by the Arab emir Zawi ben Ziri in the 11th Century, the independant kingdom of Granada lasted for 500 years, during which time it flourished culturally and architecturally. It's demise came when the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella put an end to Muslim rule in Spain in 1492. During this time successive rulers built a stunning palace complex - The Alhambra - the likes of which had never been seen in Europe before and probably never again.

The setting is as majestic as the complex itself, set on the Sabika, a long wooded hill 150 metres above the city with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada a towering backdrop. A Muslim poet once described the hill as a crown with the Alhambra the great ruby set in it; the name 'Alhambra' signifies 'the red' in Arabic, alluding to the colour of the bricks used by the Moors to build the outer walls.

The Alhambra is more than a palace, it is more a city; in amongst the massive ramparts there are gardens, pavilions, palace complex, Alcazaba (fortress) and even a small medina (town). The Moorish design has resulted in a unique and well-preserved display of the most intricate Arabic art and decorative construction, alongside more modern Renaissance architecture.

The Alhambra was not built in one go at a certain date. As well as the Nasrid (1237-1492 AD) additions, which are the most important part there are also earlier constructions and later Christian modifications. So then in chronological order we have the main parts of the Alhambra Palace and surrounds

1. LA ALCAZABA AND THE FORTIFIED ALHAMBRA- A fortified miniature town, situated on the very top of the hill makes the perfect vantage point for observing invading armies from miles around. From the 13th century the Nasrids gave the Alcazaba it's present form and the whole area was enclosed and fortified by walls with towers and gates built at intervals. The Watch Tower has the most stunning views over the whole of the city and beyond.

2. THE PALACES - Once the circling walls were built, the first palaces were added, the Portico del Partal is the earliest surviving palace. The Comares Palace, with the Court of the Myrtles (in the picture left) was started by Sultan Yusuf I, who also built the Justice Gate and the Gate of The Seven Floors. The Palace of the Lions (see picture below right) was built during the reign of Muhammad V (1362-1391 AD). It's perfectly proportioned arcades and slim columns surround a fountain supported by 12 marble lions. The laws of Pythagoras can be seen in the dimensions of the buildings in the Alhambra, testifying to the Moors advancement in mathematics. The elaborate decoration is of stucco, carved by artisans into lace-like artistic patterns, repeated over and over; some ornate archways look like stalactites organized into perfect symmetry. Another features of the palaces are the 'zillij' - glazed cut tiles in complex geometric patterns, lining the lower walls in vivid patterns.

3. THE CHRISTIAN ALHAMBRA - The most important of these buildings is The Charles V Palace (work started 1526 AD and still didn't have it's roof in 1923!), shaped as a circle inside a square, religious symbols of heaven and earth, also houses the Alhambra Museum and the Fine Arts Museum, with many important pieces coming from the restoration and excavation of the site.

4. THE GENERALIFE GARDENS (name derived from Arabic 'Jennat-al-Arif', translated as 'the high gardens' but likely signifies 'the garden of the architect') a secluded Moorish Villa and garden, a fine example of Arabic landscaping, and apparently served as a villa where the rulers could relax. Water plays a large part in the gardens architecture, a luxury for people accustomed to the desert. The Upper gardens are reached by the Staircase of the Lions and are divided into terraces with excellent views over the rest of the Generalife with the famous Water Stairway leading up into the highest point, well worth the climb!

When the last king Boabdil surrendered to Ferdinand and Isabella, he and his family had to go into exile. After leaving the city they reportedly paused at a high point now called 'El Suspiro del Moro' (The Moor's Sigh). As they looked back for a final glimpse of their glorious red palace, Boabdil's mother reportedly said to her son 'Weep like a woman for what you could not defend as a man'. You too can visit this spot and understand the sadness of it's last Moorish king.....

In high season we recommend booking tickets as a limited number are permitted entry each day. You can book online here. Costs 10 euros per person for entry, 7 euros for senior citizens and children under 8 go free! The ticket enables entry into the Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife Gardens. There is a set time to enter the Nasrid Palaces but once you are in you can stay for as long as you want.

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